Friday, August 27, 2010

Long overdue 4-island update

Hey cyberspace, I'm still alive!
Its been ages and much has happened, the days blur a little bit, but events are handily separated by island.
After the last update, in Santorini, Steph and I left Taylor's family's place to move to the more backpacker-friendly Perissa Beach. We had some serious lazy beach days, laid around our hotel's pool (definite perk for the budget travelers!), attempted a night on the town that turned out to be not so rowdy (who knew we were now in "off-season??). On one of our more ambitious days, we were told we could walk to Ancient Thera, just by taking that road over there for a few metres and following the signs for 45 minutes, how easy! It turned out that the "walk" was over an hour up the side of a mountain through what we later found out was the graveyard of the aforementioned Ancient Thera. So there we were, hiking like billy-goats in flip flops and sun dresses alongside hardcore keens-wearing tourists with waterbottles and judging glances. It was totally worth it - our first real ruins! It was the ruins of the old city, and they were pretty intact for a site that didn't seem to be afforded much in the way of protection from stomping tourist feet. That adventure took the whole day, then off we went to catch our ferry to Naxos. The major highlight of Santorini, sad as it is to admit, was the 24-hr bakery located about 100m from our hotel room. We went 5 times in 2 days, and each time discovered a new and exciting phyllo-covered treat...oops.
Our ride to Naxos should have been a nice, easy, 2 hour ride, but Poseidon seemed to have other plans and gave us some seriously rough seas. It wouldn't be outrageous to estimate that a solid 75% of the passengers on our ferry were vomiting into their seasickness bags. The poor ferry workers had to walk up and down the aisles for an hour with garbage bags exchanging puke-filled bags for empty ones. I almost threw up just from the sight, sound, and smell of so much bile, but lucky for me the Lawton constitution held up. At one point we were told that we couldn't even get to Naxos, and we turned around to dock in the nearest safe port, Ios. We then turned BACK around when the ocean calmed down and made it to Naxos safe, but late.
We arrived at night, completely lost, with absolutely no idea where to find our hotel. The directions said "250m from the port, on the beach". Sounds simple, no? NO. An hour or so of hopeless wandering and asking very unhelpful locals for assistance finally brought us to our rooms, where we were greeted by the owner scolding us for not seeing him and his nice minibus waiting for us at the port. Naxos was REALLY windy, just like Santorini, but on Santorini there were nice big lava rocks that didn't get blown around, whereas Naxos was pristine white sandy beaches. That sounds nice until you realize that it translates directly into a not-so-pristine white sandy body. We ditched the beach to head uphill (everything in Greece is uphill) to check out a Venetian Castle and the area around it. It was nothing like any other area of Greece we've wandered around - very very Italian looking and full of awesome shops, danger danger. We were sort of under the impression that Naxos was a boring ghost town with nobody around and no shops open, until we ventured out for dinner around 9pm and all the people who had been siesta-ing all day were out in force. Naxos is a seriously noctournal place and it is absolutely full of baked goods. They were everywhere! We became excellent customers of a local bakery between our hotel and the main street, very sketchy looking but run by a really nice Greek family. We definitely hit that up 4 times in 2 days. We can't be trusted with phyllo so close by, and crepes!
The ferry from Naxos was almost going to be a total disaster. Our ferry to Mykonos was canceled, so we had to book one 5 hours earlier (thank god we went and checked early) to Syros, then another to Mykonos. The first ferry was almost 2 hours late, which put us in a bit of a panic to make our connection, but evidently this is standard procedure for the Aegean Sea, because our next ferry was equally late.
Mykonos is a fairly dangerous place. One is able to find booze and loud music at pretty much any time between noon and 8am. We stayed at a place called Paradise, which had nice rooms but cost a fortune. I was frankly not super impressed with Mykonos on the whole. With the exception of one highly debaucherous night, it was pretty tame. The club we went to on the first night turned out to be an unofficial gay bar full of douchey gay Italians wearing scarves indoors when its +30 outside. On the night of the Full Moon Party, our one crazy night, Steph and I got a 1.5L of crappy wine to get a bit pissed before we headed to the bar where RedBull costs 12 euro. It was a totally unnecessary exercise - 5 minutes after we walked in some guys who may or may not have worked at the club slapped some VIP wristbands on us and plopped us in a booth with a bottle of Grey Goose. We went from VIP to dancing in the actual DJ booth at sunrise behind DJs who I've actually heard of! Crazy night that became a crazy 7am morning. Clearly the next day was a total write-off.
Next up is Ios! That's where we are now...stay tuned!

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